​The best thing in this case would be to hire a professional and have someone meet and understand your unique situation. (I can only hope you will choose someone who is based in positive reinforcement, but you will do what feels right to you.)

1.0 There is no "easy," "quick," or "straightforward" path to gaining the results you want. Dog training is messy, and your good behaviors will come in waves along with the bad. The key to success is consistency for the rest of your dog's life.

2.0 What does your dog know really well not because you are going to tell your dog to "sit" when they go for a bite, but because the more your dog knows about learning, the easier the following steps will be. My question at this phase is: how did you teach your dog these well-known behaviors?

In the end, your dog needs to have a college degree and know every trick in the book. Your dog should do them with a nod of your head or wave of your hand. Why not?

2.1 I wanted to understand better when your dog bites: at home in a low distraction, low-stress environment while you have a high-valued reward on you? This is where your training should begin, and you should only advance to new places or more substantial distractions when your batting 90%. Itty-bitty-baby steps. It goes quicker than you think because there is a snowball effect. 

3.0 Safety is your number one priority! So your first line of business is to use tools and teach behaviors that will keep you and everyone else safe.

This does not directly address the problem of your dog biting, but it's better than being bit by a dog in the first place.

3.2 Muzzle train your dog - Desensitization training to a muzzle. If you feel there is a 1% possibility (or higher) your dog might bite someone they should at minimum be wearing a muzzle. Muzzles are not a solution but will give you a safe place to start your training. 

3.3 Fencing, gates, and crates are your next safety home improvements. Teach above all else a super solid "kennel," "go to bed," "crate," or "place" behavior. You need to make the crate or behind a fence your safe zone.

For example, if the doorbell rings you need the ability to ask your dog to go to their place where you can close the gate to keep your dog and guests safe.

4.0 Beef up your training and exercise schedule. Your dog needs to run, dig, jump, bark, chase, and be a dog at least 50% of his day. A tired dog is a good dog. While putting the miles on you should simultaneously be training fetch, heal, down-stay, jump on, jump over, crawl under, stand-tall, sit-pretty, and tug (with a let go).

When you're not engaging with your dog (safely), then your dog should be confined and carefully placed behind a barrier. Also during this stage, your dog should remain on a leash all the time unless in a well-fenced area. You should never leave yourself open to accidents and not have control of your dog.

4.1 Keep a journal. Track what your dog eats, how much, and when. Keep track of how long they played, and how much physical energy was used. Pay attention to when they attempt to bite and record time of day, location, action proceeding bite, victim of bite, recovery behavior, and just about anything you can think of. Tracking data becomes the key to find a lasting solution.

5.0 Let some time go by (3 months) sticking with this avoidance and high-frequency activity schedule before you start to address what might be the root cause. Hopefully, by now, you have a solid Crate command, and your dog is only accessing fun and freedoms through you. Maybe you have joined an agility club (with a muzzle on) and given your dog the chance to have some structured (on leash) fun.

6.0 Start listening to your dog. With all this undivided attention and data you are tracking about your dog it's time to start letting your dog call the shots (if you haven't already). Pay close attention to when your dog is showing you early signs of stress. Yawning, licking, avoiding eye contact, hard eye contact, and panting are just some of the symptoms. Start implementing  Behavior Adjust Training methods and Calming Signals. Never force your dog into a situation they are not ready for. Let your dog tell you when they are prepared to meet a stranger, be pet, play, or even come out of their crate.

I wish you the best of luck through this emotionally taxing rollercoaster ride (and it will be). You will not be successful in the end unless you are willing to change your own behavior too. The best animal trainers have excellent ability to face the man in the mirror and stay overwhelmingly consistent and patient with themselves and their student.

​If you have kids or have worked around children there is always talk about empowering the child, to give them choices, and let them think for themselves. This concept is also very effective when working with other social animals other than humans as well. 

It is known that all social animals look for acceptance by their peers and the ability to be part of a team or network. Dogs are amazing in the fact they have been living alongside humans so long that they look to us as their family, network, or team. They rely on us to help them solve problems but we have forgotten the other side of the equation. Where dogs get to return the favor and help us to be successful and thrive. 

We should be empowering our dogs and even if we don’t need them like we used to we should still pretend that we rely on them. Giving them a sense of place and acceptance as part of the team. 

How do you empower your dog and help them find meaning in their lives?

The simple answer is you spend time with them playing a variety of games. Set up situations that allow the dog to make choices and help make the right choice the easy one. You can guide their decisions but let them make them on their own. 

Always work in a controlled environment or on a leash until your dog has earned the privilege of being off leash. Keep in mind that when working on a leash you need to keep it loose. You want to try not to pull them into make a choice but give them a loose leash and the freedom to make good decisions on their own. 

Occasionally, you might need to step in and use the leash, treats, or toy to rescue the dog from making or almost making the wrong decision. Your goal is to minimize the amount of time you have to do this but know that when things don’t go as planned you have a lifesaver in your back pocket. 

The most important part for you the human end of the leash is to have a solid understanding of dog language and know the signs of stress. This helps you judge how the dog is doing and adjust the environment or the situation to help make their job just a little easier. 

At no point should you need to “correct” your dog’s behavior or punish them for making the wrong choice. If you do find yourself needing to restrain your dog or then keep in mind that it was your fault and make a note on how you can set the situation up next time to help them pick the right option. Accidents happen when you work with animals and we are not perfect. 

What you don’t want to do is punish the dog with fear because this takes away their choices and leads them to confusion and eventually shut down. 

Happy training!  

If you have ever encountered an off leash and uncontrolled dog when you are out walking your dog on a leash then this blog is for you. 

Let's bust a few common beliefs before we jump into the how-to. 

(1) Dogs should be friendly and get along with every dog they encounter and meet. 

This is a very wrong idea that gets a lot of dogs into trouble and can even be the cause of reactivity in some dogs. Dogs just like ourselves are social animals, and part of being social is building meaningful relationships and friendships. They also each have unique personalities and preferences that dictate who they get along with and who they don't. They don't need to say "hello" to every stranger dog, it's important to respect your dog's emotions about other dogs.

(2) When two dogs do meet dog people often think they should just let the dogs "work it out". 

What?!? Now being experienced in dog language there are times I might let a couple of dogs communicate uninterrupted by me. However, most greetings don't need to happen at all. This avoids any accidents. If you don't know the dog your dog is interacting with then you are not going to be able to predict what they might do. You run the risk (even if the owner is there shouting "my dog is friendly!") of one of the dogs ruining the other one in future greetings. It's especially important to mediate dog-dog interactions with puppies or young dogs because one growl or snap could cause lasting emotional damage to youth. So don't let your dog "just work it out" unless you truly feel that both dogs are communicating politely and appropriately. 

(3) One final thought about common beliefs on dog relationships: Bulling or dogs that put other dogs in their "place" is never appropriate! You might be under the impression that your dog needs to be "dominated" by another dog to give them some perspective but this is NEVER needed and is NEVER appropriate behavior. 

So what do you do when you see a dog off leash and out of their owners control barreling towards your own dog knowing what you know now.

This method works by physically hitting the approaching dog in the face with lots of small smelly treats that will distract and hopefully occupy them for a few moments. Giving you the chance to leave the situation with your own dog. Remember to give your dog treats and rewards for walking away nicely and not engaging with this stranger dog. 

Pro: This method is probably the most humane method we will talk about. If it is a dog you encounter frequently it gives you the opportunity to train that dog to associate you and your dog as positive. It can lead to friendly more appropriate encounters by slowing the dog down and putting them in a good mood before greeting your dog. 

Con: you have to be caring and an excessive amount of treats. If your dog is in training then this probably won't seem like a big deal. This method is not always effective depending on the dog approaching. Also, you don't know if that dog has any allergies or dietary restrictions but at the same time if that was the case (I figure) a responsible owner would keep them on a leash. 

If a dog is coming at you in a rage I don't recomend you do this without also a back up plan to keep the dog from advancing (treats or citranella). This can be very effective with dogs who apper aware and responsive to their environment. I have experienced success with just standing up straight, looking a dog down, and saying "go home" in a clear tone. Doesn't mean you have to have a deep voice or a loud voice, a sencear clear voice with an overlineing tone of seriousness like giving directions to a child.

The warning with this is many dogs who are running at large are clueless as to how to comunicate with a human and are compleatly oblivious to their sarroundings. 

Now remember this is not a training tool though you will be remembered by the dog you use it on after a couple of times and they might start leaving you alone. This has happened for me, so I guess you can say the dog was trained... 

Citranella spray does deliver the element of shock and discomfort, with the side effect of the dog smelling like lemons. I only use this on dogs that are approching a dog I'm walking never on my own dogs. The reason is that it will build a negative asociation between you and the dog, but if you don't have any relationship with the stranger dog running at you and your dog and you don't plan on building on then this is the most effective way to keep your dog safe and confortable. 

If you have a small dog or a dog that is reactive twards other dogs this method can build trust as they can start to relax in your precens because they know you will take care of the scary bad dogs that come too close. 

In conclusion, there are many ways, more than what I mentioned, to gain control of an uncontroled dog trying to greet your controled dog when out on a walk. It's important to remember what roll you play in your dogs life and that is to be their leader not by dominateing them but by respecing their prefrences and sanding up for them when needed. 

This kind approch has changed the relationship I have with my dogs (or dogs I work with) and created more calm, sweet, and well rounded dogs. 

I can't count how many times I have seen a dog with a prong collar on as it pulls its owners on a leash. When will owners realize that pain does not teach complex behaviors? (walking on a leash is a complex behavior.) Where do you draw a line between acceptable punishment and punishment that goes too far?

This is the problem with the prong collar, it is a glorified choke collar, it takes less effort on the owners part to cause pain and discomfort to the dog. They have the potential to cause physical damage as well as severe psychological damage. 

People often choose to use a prong collar under the impression that the collar is what creates the results. Do not fall victim to this absolutely outlandish idea! Not only is this a tool that inflicts pain and discomfort to the dog, you most certainly do not know how to properly use positive punishment. Even the best trainers can mess it up and do real damage to a dog's mental state! 

Prong collars should not be used as a management tool. I recommend that dog owners stay as far away from this tool (as well as choke collars). ​

This is a tool I don't typically recommend but it can be an effective management tool when need. The best use of the halter is when the dog out weights/strengths the handler. 

If you feel you need more control and would like to use a halter you need to do some desensitization to teach the dog to accept having something on their face. It's the same process as muzzle training. This is one reason why I don't recommend the head halter as a management tool because it requires some training before it can be used safely and appropriately. 

Keep in mind the top of the muzzle can be sensitive to pressure and make sure you keep the leash loose at all times and never use a head halter (or prong, or choke collar) with a long leash of any kind (like the flexi or training leash)! 

When used incorrectly and without the pre training head halters can be dangerous, I recommend consulting a trainer about the right and wrong ways to use a head halter. ​

I recommend that if you are looking for a leash walking management tool that requires no real working knowledge of dog training and is both safe and humane, you use a body harness. 

If you would like more information about dog training equipment please contact Kind Animal Services. 
​
Do you have a dog that pulls you down the street? What do you do about it? 

If you found this post helpful please share! ​

Today's domesticated dogs have no choices and must depend on us for everything including their entertainment and education. 

Maybe in the past dogs were allowed to rome off leash and go where they pleased, usually when they pleased. When their humans were busy there was plenty of activities. This is just not the case anymore. Your dog cannot go running around on the streets and find usually themselves locked indoors with a lack of entertainment.

People need to understand that we have taken away all choices an animal gets to make, with out any trade off. We then wonder why our dogs build such bad habits, like barking for instance. 

It's time people considered what their dogs want's and need's in this life. It's more than just a bowl of food and a dry bed. They need to have fun, play, learn, and explore daily. We all too often prevent our dogs from doing any of that and forcing our dogs into uncomfortable situations, expecting them to be nice to everyone. 

Consider your dog's wellbeing and ask yourself are they satisfied before you let yourself think that your dog is a bad dog. They probably are doing the best they can with the circumstances you have given them.

Is your dog a total spaz for squirrels and just about everything that runs?

There is one tool or game I frequently use with terriers, who are known for their critter chasing drive. It teaches beautiful self-control and attention when your dog is in an intense frame of mind. Note, this game will NOT make your dog best friends with the household cat and they should always be under close supervision when in the same environment.

Here is an outline of how you can use this critter chasing game and toy to teach your dog to not chase critters.

Step 1. Encourage interest and drive for the toy.

Like any new sport, you will need to work your dog up to playing a full game. Start off with tug-o-war or fetch if your dog already knows one of those games, gradually add in more chasing and less tugging or catching of the toy. I often start without the wand, playing with the toy alone, working my way all the way up to the actual game of chase.

If your dog loves to chase it should only take one session to show them how the game works. I usually take a couple more sessions to develop an extreme drive. You want the dog to be so excited to play they will do anything for the chance to play one round.

Step 2. Start by saying Please!

Now that your dog is completely chase-crazy for the toy at the end of the lure, you are now in the driver's seat and can begin calling the shots. Before you ever put the toy down and let them run after it, ask for eye contact and calm behavior. Requesting that they sit or down can be helpful in the early stages. As soon as they hold eye contact with you for a few seconds and wait calmly, use a release word like "get it", drop the toy, and let them run.

At no point should you have to hold your dog to keep them from chasing the toy. Call them back after a minute or so and repeat. Your goal is to get their attention on you and to teach them they are not allowed to chase until cued to do so.

In the meantime, it is recommended that you prevent your dog from chasing critters when you have not released them. You can achieve this by keeping them on a leash when in the area of critters they might chase.

Step 3. Calling Away from Distraction.

When you have great control before a session you can then ask for a little more. Ask your dog to look at you and wait calmly while you place (slowly) the toy on the floor and move it a little. If the dog stands up and heads to the toy before being released then you can pull the toy up, or block the dog with your body, or both. You don't want your dog to get the toy before cued, EVER!

Gradually build up the intensity of the distraction (the toy on the lure) and the length of the waiting behavior. When your dog can wait beautifully while the toy is drug violently around them you can then start practicing back to back sessions. Asking them to wait and give attention to you then releasing to play, over and over again. Your end goal is you can call the dog to wait and never have to lift up or stop the toy.

Pretty soon your dog will listen even when on the hunt because this game practices their listening skills in the same frame of mind.

You can puches a lure toy here made by one of my favorte brands.
​http://amzn.to/2iK9Apy

When you need to leave town without your animals, who do you call? 

The truth is we all want to find a free or very cheap pet sitter, the neighbor kid or some family friend. While many pet sittings go smoothly and the work itself is relatively easy, you should consider just what would happen if something did go wrong.

Of course, we are biased because we think that pet sitting and dog walking should be treated as a career choice (or at lease a serious job). It is because of this our pet sitters often come at a steeper price than the kid down the street. Why? 

Why can we charge so much? Why are we so proud of the services we offer? 

​1. Knowledge and Experience.

A professional pet sitter is like any other professional, they know what they are doing and have experience doing it. At KAS some of our pet sitters are new to the industry but that's why we hold regular meetings and group discussion to help spread knowledge from seasoned pet sitters to nubies. 

2. Prepared for the worst.

Anyone who claims to be a professional, better have some idea of what they are going to do when things go south. Let's face it life happens, so what are you going to do when it does? Pet sitters should know different. Before the pet owner ever leaves home the pet sitter should make sure they are as prepared as they can be with emergency contacts, know where the closest vet is, understand the current health of the animal, and make sure that transportation if necessary has been arranged.

3. Open communication. 

No one wants a pet sitter who is dishonest. A pet professional should be completely open and honest about the happenings around your home and with your animals. Many pet sitters send a report each visit, or day, letting the owner know exactly what is happening. A great pet sitter will make sure to add photos and videos to their reports. 

4. Organization.

Of course, if someone is going to do any kind of professional work they should keep a calendar up to date with appointments and to-dos. The best pet sitters have systems in place to record and track pet information, customer information, and emergency information so that it is easy to access. There should also be organization system for keys so that they don't get lost of stolen. 

5. Know how to spot early symptoms of anxiety, stress, and illness in animals.

Lastly, pro pet sitters should have tricks to help reduce the anxiety or relieve the stress. No pet likes being left behind with a stranger, but it helps when that stranger knows exactly how to help them cope with the absence of their owners. 

Knowledge really is power. You wouldn't go see the kid down the street to look after your sick grandma, why would you have them take care of the family pet? Pet professionals of all kinds should be experienced, educated, prepared, organized, and above all else know how to make your pet feel relaxed and comfortable while you're gone.

​Guess what today is? It's wildlife conservation day! 

Turns out Oregon is not exactly being praised for their efforts in wildlife conservation. Oregon’s Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW) is struggling to make ends meet and it seems they need to reconsider their approach.

Most of the ODFW’s money comes through fishing licenses and hunting tags. In turn leading them to have a strong incentive to focus their resources on the wildlife, we hunt and fish. Leaving a staggering number of non-hunted species to continue down the path to extinction.

Even with the funds they have, by the sound of it, ODFW has been unsuccessful in planning and implementing effective conservation strategies. They have been known to push conservation projects to complete in a year. When a normal project of this type (working with natural ecosystems and such) need at least 2-3 years to have a real effect. These projects were a total waste of money and time.

Another place ODFW seems to have fallen behind is in their ability to effectively track and report and log data. At one time it was estimated that 1,400 different file types were being used to document important data on all Oregon species.

WHAT! It’s almost 2017 and we still can’t get our data systems together.

We need to come up with a solution so that we can fund biologist to gather more information about species, that information can then be used to better protect species, and Oregon can start proactively protecting it’s endangered and threatened animals instead of just putting out fires.

Happy conservation day!

Now I want to hear from you. Would you support Kind Animal Services if we offered services that gave a portion of our profits to Oregon conservation efforts through Oregon’s Department of Fish and Wildlife or another conservation agency in Oregon? I want to hear your thoughts on the matter.

That’s all for now,
KAS

Related Links:
-Wildlife Neglected: How Oregon Lost Track Of Species It’s Supposed To Protect
-Wildlife Neglected: Lacking Support, Conservation Falters At Oregon Fish and Wildlife
-Wildlife Neglected: To Fund Conservation, Oregon Hopes To Succeed Where Past Efforts Failed

​​Good Morning beautiful mutt, 

I just finished reading an article about what is responsible breeding and I thought since it is Mutt Day it is the perfect day to talk about this idea. 

What does breeding responsibly mean? Let's start with the genetics and physical health. This is often the element of breeding that people talk about but don’t always do a good job at looking out for the dog. We often breed for trendy looks instead of bone structure and joint alignment. 

In the Belgian Malinois world, I am starting to see a trend breeding these beautiful and agile dogs bigger than breed standard. That would be fine if that didn’t mean also breeding in hip problems like the German Shepherd. 

A responsible breeder should start to think about their dog's personality and mental health as well as physical. Some breeds are more predisposed to anxiety and end up in shelters because of behavior issues. This wouldn’t be a problem if breeders took the responsibility of assessing their dog's disposition before deciding to breed them. That same breeder should then be a continued resource for the dog’s new owner to help them work through and handle those issues if they come up. 

A responsible breeder would make sure to give each puppy the best start they possibly could. Providing an enriching environment and exposing them to sounds and smells at a young age.

I think that a responsible breeder should treat their dog breeding like a business and implement a higher level of customer service. It should be every breeder's number one goal to take care of their puppies for life. Starting with screening potential puppy buyers, reinforcing spay neuter contracts, and following up with puppy owners to answer questions and make suggestions. 

All in all, I wish to see breeders less seen as the bad guy and instead part of the solution to our overflowing shelters.

-KAS