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The best thing in this case would be to hire a professional and have someone meet and understand your unique situation. (I can only hope you will choose someone who is based in positive reinforcement, but you will do what feels right to you.)
1.0 There is no "easy," "quick," or "straightforward" path to gaining the results you want. Dog training is messy, and your good behaviors will come in waves along with the bad. The key to success is consistency for the rest of your dog's life.
2.0 What does your dog know really well not because you are going to tell your dog to "sit" when they go for a bite, but because the more your dog knows about learning, the easier the following steps will be. My question at this phase is: how did you teach your dog these well-known behaviors?
In the end, your dog needs to have a college degree and know every trick in the book. Your dog should do them with a nod of your head or wave of your hand. Why not?
2.1 I wanted to understand better when your dog bites: at home in a low distraction, low-stress environment while you have a high-valued reward on you? This is where your training should begin, and you should only advance to new places or more substantial distractions when your batting 90%. Itty-bitty-baby steps. It goes quicker than you think because there is a snowball effect.
3.0 Safety is your number one priority! So your first line of business is to use tools and teach behaviors that will keep you and everyone else safe.
This does not directly address the problem of your dog biting, but it's better than being bit by a dog in the first place.
3.2 Muzzle train your dog - Desensitization training to a muzzle. If you feel there is a 1% possibility (or higher) your dog might bite someone they should at minimum be wearing a muzzle. Muzzles are not a solution but will give you a safe place to start your training.
3.3 Fencing, gates, and crates are your next safety home improvements. Teach above all else a super solid "kennel," "go to bed," "crate," or "place" behavior. You need to make the crate or behind a fence your safe zone.
For example, if the doorbell rings you need the ability to ask your dog to go to their place where you can close the gate to keep your dog and guests safe.
4.0 Beef up your training and exercise schedule. Your dog needs to run, dig, jump, bark, chase, and be a dog at least 50% of his day. A tired dog is a good dog. While putting the miles on you should simultaneously be training fetch, heal, down-stay, jump on, jump over, crawl under, stand-tall, sit-pretty, and tug (with a let go).
When you're not engaging with your dog (safely), then your dog should be confined and carefully placed behind a barrier. Also during this stage, your dog should remain on a leash all the time unless in a well-fenced area. You should never leave yourself open to accidents and not have control of your dog.
4.1 Keep a journal. Track what your dog eats, how much, and when. Keep track of how long they played, and how much physical energy was used. Pay attention to when they attempt to bite and record time of day, location, action proceeding bite, victim of bite, recovery behavior, and just about anything you can think of. Tracking data becomes the key to find a lasting solution.
5.0 Let some time go by (3 months) sticking with this avoidance and high-frequency activity schedule before you start to address what might be the root cause. Hopefully, by now, you have a solid Crate command, and your dog is only accessing fun and freedoms through you. Maybe you have joined an agility club (with a muzzle on) and given your dog the chance to have some structured (on leash) fun.
6.0 Start listening to your dog. With all this undivided attention and data you are tracking about your dog it's time to start letting your dog call the shots (if you haven't already). Pay close attention to when your dog is showing you early signs of stress. Yawning, licking, avoiding eye contact, hard eye contact, and panting are just some of the symptoms. Start implementing Behavior Adjust Training methods and Calming Signals. Never force your dog into a situation they are not ready for. Let your dog tell you when they are prepared to meet a stranger, be pet, play, or even come out of their crate.
I wish you the best of luck through this emotionally taxing rollercoaster ride (and it will be). You will not be successful in the end unless you are willing to change your own behavior too. The best animal trainers have excellent ability to face the man in the mirror and stay overwhelmingly consistent and patient with themselves and their student.
Is your dog a total spaz for squirrels and just about everything that runs?
There is one tool or game I frequently use with terriers, who are known for their critter chasing drive. It teaches beautiful self-control and attention when your dog is in an intense frame of mind. Note, this game will NOT make your dog best friends with the household cat and they should always be under close supervision when in the same environment.
Here is an outline of how you can use this critter chasing game and toy to teach your dog to not chase critters.
Step 1. Encourage interest and drive for the toy.
Like any new sport, you will need to work your dog up to playing a full game. Start off with tug-o-war or fetch if your dog already knows one of those games, gradually add in more chasing and less tugging or catching of the toy. I often start without the wand, playing with the toy alone, working my way all the way up to the actual game of chase.
If your dog loves to chase it should only take one session to show them how the game works. I usually take a couple more sessions to develop an extreme drive. You want the dog to be so excited to play they will do anything for the chance to play one round.
Step 2. Start by saying Please!
Now that your dog is completely chase-crazy for the toy at the end of the lure, you are now in the driver's seat and can begin calling the shots. Before you ever put the toy down and let them run after it, ask for eye contact and calm behavior. Requesting that they sit or down can be helpful in the early stages. As soon as they hold eye contact with you for a few seconds and wait calmly, use a release word like "get it", drop the toy, and let them run.
At no point should you have to hold your dog to keep them from chasing the toy. Call them back after a minute or so and repeat. Your goal is to get their attention on you and to teach them they are not allowed to chase until cued to do so.
In the meantime, it is recommended that you prevent your dog from chasing critters when you have not released them. You can achieve this by keeping them on a leash when in the area of critters they might chase.
Step 3. Calling Away from Distraction.
When you have great control before a session you can then ask for a little more. Ask your dog to look at you and wait calmly while you place (slowly) the toy on the floor and move it a little. If the dog stands up and heads to the toy before being released then you can pull the toy up, or block the dog with your body, or both. You don't want your dog to get the toy before cued, EVER!
Gradually build up the intensity of the distraction (the toy on the lure) and the length of the waiting behavior. When your dog can wait beautifully while the toy is drug violently around them you can then start practicing back to back sessions. Asking them to wait and give attention to you then releasing to play, over and over again. Your end goal is you can call the dog to wait and never have to lift up or stop the toy.
Pretty soon your dog will listen even when on the hunt because this game practices their listening skills in the same frame of mind.
You can puches a lure toy here made by one of my favorte brands.