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The best thing in this case would be to hire a professional and have someone meet and understand your unique situation. (I can only hope you will choose someone who is based in positive reinforcement, but you will do what feels right to you.)
1.0 There is no "easy," "quick," or "straightforward" path to gaining the results you want. Dog training is messy, and your good behaviors will come in waves along with the bad. The key to success is consistency for the rest of your dog's life.
2.0 What does your dog know really well not because you are going to tell your dog to "sit" when they go for a bite, but because the more your dog knows about learning, the easier the following steps will be. My question at this phase is: how did you teach your dog these well-known behaviors?
In the end, your dog needs to have a college degree and know every trick in the book. Your dog should do them with a nod of your head or wave of your hand. Why not?
2.1 I wanted to understand better when your dog bites: at home in a low distraction, low-stress environment while you have a high-valued reward on you? This is where your training should begin, and you should only advance to new places or more substantial distractions when your batting 90%. Itty-bitty-baby steps. It goes quicker than you think because there is a snowball effect.
3.0 Safety is your number one priority! So your first line of business is to use tools and teach behaviors that will keep you and everyone else safe.
This does not directly address the problem of your dog biting, but it's better than being bit by a dog in the first place.
3.2 Muzzle train your dog - Desensitization training to a muzzle. If you feel there is a 1% possibility (or higher) your dog might bite someone they should at minimum be wearing a muzzle. Muzzles are not a solution but will give you a safe place to start your training.
3.3 Fencing, gates, and crates are your next safety home improvements. Teach above all else a super solid "kennel," "go to bed," "crate," or "place" behavior. You need to make the crate or behind a fence your safe zone.
For example, if the doorbell rings you need the ability to ask your dog to go to their place where you can close the gate to keep your dog and guests safe.
4.0 Beef up your training and exercise schedule. Your dog needs to run, dig, jump, bark, chase, and be a dog at least 50% of his day. A tired dog is a good dog. While putting the miles on you should simultaneously be training fetch, heal, down-stay, jump on, jump over, crawl under, stand-tall, sit-pretty, and tug (with a let go).
When you're not engaging with your dog (safely), then your dog should be confined and carefully placed behind a barrier. Also during this stage, your dog should remain on a leash all the time unless in a well-fenced area. You should never leave yourself open to accidents and not have control of your dog.
4.1 Keep a journal. Track what your dog eats, how much, and when. Keep track of how long they played, and how much physical energy was used. Pay attention to when they attempt to bite and record time of day, location, action proceeding bite, victim of bite, recovery behavior, and just about anything you can think of. Tracking data becomes the key to find a lasting solution.
5.0 Let some time go by (3 months) sticking with this avoidance and high-frequency activity schedule before you start to address what might be the root cause. Hopefully, by now, you have a solid Crate command, and your dog is only accessing fun and freedoms through you. Maybe you have joined an agility club (with a muzzle on) and given your dog the chance to have some structured (on leash) fun.
6.0 Start listening to your dog. With all this undivided attention and data you are tracking about your dog it's time to start letting your dog call the shots (if you haven't already). Pay close attention to when your dog is showing you early signs of stress. Yawning, licking, avoiding eye contact, hard eye contact, and panting are just some of the symptoms. Start implementing Behavior Adjust Training methods and Calming Signals. Never force your dog into a situation they are not ready for. Let your dog tell you when they are prepared to meet a stranger, be pet, play, or even come out of their crate.
I wish you the best of luck through this emotionally taxing rollercoaster ride (and it will be). You will not be successful in the end unless you are willing to change your own behavior too. The best animal trainers have excellent ability to face the man in the mirror and stay overwhelmingly consistent and patient with themselves and their student.