As a pet professional, I hear this question a lot. Even outside of work I am often turned to when friends or family have pet-related questions and problems and it can be a fun way to apply my knowledge. However, the biggest thing I run into is the assumption I will have a short and sweet answer to their question. They are often very surprised when I respond with 20 questions of my own before I can even begin to “diagnose” their animal and give them the proper tools to deal with their situation. When someone brings questions about their animal’s behavior to anyone, it should be a huge red-flag if someone offers a “fix-all” solution without attempting to understand the full circumstance of the behavior. It’s best to avoid this type of advice-giver at all costs. They may seem like logical and easy solutions to your problem, but, not only can the advice be completely irrelevant and unhelpful, it can also be dangerous! Two dogs that bark at strangers might need completely different training plans in order to address the behavior. A tip that works for an excited dog that needs a reminder to ask politely for attention could lead to a fearful-barker who is asking for space to lash out and hurt someone. A cat that is chasing and attacking their pet parent could be overstimulated and asking for space, be bored and begging for more interaction and play time, or really hate the new scent their pet parent put in the diffuser! Each of those scenarios would have completely different solutions and trying to address them with the same technique is going to have very different (and mostly unsuccessful) results. Any behavior modification must start with understanding why the behavior is happening in the first place. This is why it is always important to come to a trainer with as much information as you can about a particular behavior, and have patience with them if they tell you they need more before they can begin giving advice on how to help. A good trainer knows they must get a full view of the circumstance before moving onto creating a training plan. So, when gathering information to bring to your trainer, start a journal and log your answers to the following. Be as specific as you possibly can - every detail can be important. When did you notice the behavior? Is it new? Were there any smaller/less noticeable behaviors that pre-cursed this one? Are all of their physical and mental needs being fulfilled? What is their history? Any recurring health issues or past traumas? How often does it happen? Are there any specific times or triggers that cause it to occur? Has anything recently changed in their life - diet, health, age, daily routine, location, amount/frequency of interactions, other behaviors, etc.? What do you think their motivation for the behavior is/what is the outcome of the behavior? How do you react when the behavior occurs? How do others in the house react? These are only the basics, and with each answer might come more questions from your trainer. Be patient. Remember effective training begins with understanding the nuances of why the behavior is happening in the first place and cannot be truly successful without this step. The following training plan created with this knowledge in mind reduces stress for you and your animal and saves you time in the long run. You’ll avoid using methods that won’t address the root issue and thus won’t effectively change behavior, and instead will be working with your animal’s needs to find a solution that works for both of you. As trainers who understand this, Kind Animal Services will always strive to understand before we strategize. If you are having trouble with a particular behavior your animal is exhibiting, reach out to our pet professionals and KAS Trainers so we can help begin the process of understanding why. Then we can move onto the fun process of modifying the behavior as a team! Book a session now to get started. Contact us at heytrainer@kindanimalservices.com . Your first conversation is free.

What do I do when my dog blows me off? This question is probably the most asked question I get, but it has an extended, complicated response that I often feel I'm not capable of giving in the usually short amount of time I have to respond to it. Honestly, I could spend an entire class on this topic alone. First off, let's examine the question: What do I do when my dog ignores me? What if they don't listen? What's my response when they blow me off? These questions are getting at the same thing, and the logic behind questions like this is flawed. The wording implies that the dog is doing something you have no control over or are not responsible for. The "it's them, not me" type mentality. Furthermore, it also assumes the dog "knows" what they are doing. Let's start with mindset. By shifting our perspective and taking a little more responsibility within the relationship between the human (you) & the dog, we will discover that our dog is indeed behaving accordingly. Unfortunately, it's a breakdown in understanding and communication that creates problems. "My dog knows what they are supposed to do." If your dog does not perform a requested behavior immediately when asked, my first word of advice is you need more training in that particular environment. Your dog does not "know" what they are supposed to be doing if they are not doing it. Your dog is simply doing what is reinforcing and what history, training, and genetics have primed them to do. Next time your dog blows you off, I want you to take a deep breath and tell yourself it's not personal. Then you can go and recover your dog calmly and with understanding. I promise you, your dog is not ignoring you intentionally, even though it can feel that way. It takes hours of deliberate practice and slowly rising the criteria as they master easy stages to accurately and successfully train a dog. This idea is well known but rarely taken to heart by pet parents who want immediate satisfaction. My best guess is that many doggy moms and dads have been subjected to fluffy ideals and promises of obedient, loyal, and unquestioning well-behaved dogs. I find balanced and traditional dog trainers the bud of this marketing scheme that sells false results at the dog's expense. If your dog ignores you, follow these steps: Make a note about the environment. How far away was the dog when you made your request? Were they distracted, and by what? Were you outside or inside? What other things were going on in the environment? (noises, animals, children playing, etc.) Go back to training at a level your dog is successful at and slowly introduce small pieces of the original failure back into the training. While undergoing training, or if you cannot manage the reinforcer in that environment, use equipment to prevent your dog from rehearsing this "blow-off" behavior. Troubleshooting: Find and use the most potent available reinforcer. This might not be food! In most situations, clients report that their dogs ignore them when stronger reinforcement is available. Getting to continue playing with their dog friends will be more reinforcing than going home with you. So use playing with dog friends as the reinforcement for loading up in the car! If you want your dog to perform the behavior genuinely and willingly, don't use aversive tools or techniques. Tools such as prong collars, slip leads, and e-collars do not teach your dog behavior; they shut down behavior, causing a slue of other problems. In conclusion, if your dog is ignoring you, they haven't been given the tools to respond appropriately in the situation. Take some time to build their education around the cue (command) and reintroduce the situation/environment in stages. If you continue to struggle with a particular problem of your dog blowing off your commands, please get in touch with Kind Animal Services and work with a trainer to figure out an appropriate solution.

Society has generally accepted a wagging tail to be the universal sign of a happy dog. Any swing to a dog’s tail is taken as an overriding indicator the dog is excited and willfully engaged. However, this is a myth that puts dogs and humans in danger. Yes, dogs often wag their tails when feeling happy, but they also wag their tails when scared, or when they are intensely focused. This makes it hard to diagnose why your dog might be wagging their tail on tail alone. There are a lot of factors to consider when asking yourself “why?” and a misread could lead to confusion, at least, or physical injury, at worst. So what can you learn by looking just at their tail? If you see a wagging tail, the only information you can guarantee is that their arousal levels are rising. That’s it. And let me clarify: Arousal is a reference to an animal’s heightened physical and emotional state. Arousal can mistakenly be used interchangeably with the word excitement, though they are two very different things. Excitement has a positive association and generally can be attributed to anticipation for fun or enjoyable things. Arousal has no positive or negative connotation and can be caused by a variety of things like happiness, pain, confusion, etc.. Meeting a new dog or person, seeing a wild animal, passing a loud train, or going to the vet are all examples of situations where your dog might experience a change in their arousal levels. In each of these instances a dog’s tail might wag, but could be communicating a wide range of emotional/physical states in reaction to whatever they are experiencing and doesn’t necessarily mean they are enjoying themselves. Knowing how your dog naturally holds its tail is a great first step to understanding how your dog uses their tail to communicate. Look at your dog’s tail and hips when they are in a calm state. Notice the tail’s position on their back end. Is it curled up or hanging loose? Does it swing slowly or stay still? Usually there will be little to no rigidity to their tail and their muscles will be relaxed, but pay attention to the specifics of your dog. Noting what a relaxed tail looks like will help you identify when your dog’s arousal levels are beginning to change, as their tail will change positions. The stiffness of a dog’s hips while their tail is wagging is a great secondary indicator of how the dog is reacting to stimuli. Hips that wiggle back and forth with the motion of the tail can express excitement or happiness. Rigid hips and a spread leg stance, combined with a wagging tail that’s held tall and stiff, indicates yo ur dog is alert and their arousal levels are high and intense. A tail held lower than its usual position or between their legs can point to rising levels of uncertainty, regardless of whether it is wagging or not. While a full tail-tuck under the body, pressed right up against their belly, is a signal they are feeling uncomfortable and scared. Keep in mind these are very basic guidelines and should always be considered with other context clues. Generally speaking, you should not try to diagnose your dog’s emotional and physical state based on one body language cue. Tail position and movement are just some of a long list of cues to look for and things to pay attention to. This includes but is not limited to: Overall body position Their hair/coat Wideness of eyes Ear position Mouth position Vocalizations of any kind Behavioral history The environmental context Only looking at one, or even just a few, of these factors can lead to a misread of the dog’s state. You could see a fast tail wag, think “Oh they’re happy!” and assume your dog wants to meet the stranger approaching. Completely missing the hair standing up at the back of their neck and the stiffness of their stance that indicate rising levels of fear. In this scenario the dog’s fear will go unheard and they might go to extreme levels to make sure they are safe by lashing out violently, which is not ideal for anyone involved. So, while a dog’s tail is communicating with you, make sure you are listening to the combination of cues your dog is sending you. Otherwise you will be missing their full message. Learning to communicate with someone is the first step to developing a relationship with them. It’s how we ask for help, tell each other we care, and begin to develop trust with each other. The same goes for building relationships between humans and their pets. We must learn how our pets communicate with us in order to best take care of them, which means remembering they are complicated creatures with an intricate entangled language of body signals. AKA, the best way to know what a tail wag means for your dog is to pay attention to everything else too. It’s complicated but necessary work. If you need help understanding how your dog is communicating with you, don’t hesitate to reach out to Kind Animal Services. We will create a foundation of communication and trust you and your dog will continue to build on in the years to come.

Puppy socialization has become a buzz word in the dog training world. You probably know by now that you should socialize your puppy (maybe even your dog). However, when you look up how to do it you will be bombarded with tons of opinions about socialization. Though there are varying degrees about what and how socialization should be used I'm going to do my best to clean up the muddy water as to what is Socialization. I will start with the definition of socialization: Socialization: 1. the activity of mixing socially with others. "socialization with students has helped her communication skills" 2. the process of learning to behave in a way that is acceptable to society. "preschool starts the process of socialization" (Dictionary) Okay, that seems pretty straightforward. One thing I find interesting is the use in a sentence talks about communication. It is extremely important to keep in mind that our domesticated dogs are very social animals. It is their sociability after all that has made them "man's best friend". We need to recognize that dogs are genetically designed to socialize, but just because they are designed to be social they are not born with the skills to communicate effectively. I like to explain dog socialization as teaching your dog to effectively communicate with other animals (primarily dogs and humans) and have strong conflict resolution skills. A dog that has been well socialized and that has strong conflict resolution skills is generally a dog that will not turn to aggression as a solution to their needs. (Sound familiar?) Not all dogs will be well socialized and generally speaking it is best to socialize when dogs are young (under 3 years old). As they age (just like us) they will be less adventurous in their friend selection, and often prefer to stick to their known social groups. I'm sure this happens because the animal develops experiences they habituate specific dialects, communication patterns, and mannerisms. Simply put it is comfortable and as we age comfort becomes more of a priority. For the same reason socialization is important for human children because they otherwise develop stereotypes and resistance to the unknown, it's important for our dogs too. Let's step away from dogs and consider what has happened in the last couple years to peoples mental health and social-ability (communication & conflict resolution skills) since COVID? Some would say that our communication skills are struggling with all this online contact. I can say with certainty that our conflict resolution skills, as a whole, is lacking. Many don't know how to confront and talk through differences. They resort to ghosting or aggression. Back to dog socialization... Socialization is not something you can take a single class for or read a few books. It's something that needs to be considered every single day when raising a puppy up until around the age of 2. You want to guide your dog through social situations in a way they learn to behave appropriately in both human and dog society. That is the goal after all. I know this might sound like you need obedience and control but I would hate for you to miss the point! -- Socialization is not about your dog minding you but actually about your dog communicating with others. This includes non verbal versions of "may I have ___, please" and "No thank you". Conflict resolution, I can't help but continue to frame socialization as conflict resolution skills. Though it also incorporates general communication; the ability to communicate needs, the skill of making friends, and being non-judgmental of other beings. Let me clarify when I say judgmental in a dog I'm referring to the stress or fear that can be triggered by unknown behavior or situations. Remember during the socialization period of your dogs life they must have positive experiences with novelty. The younger the dog the more novelty they are experiencing constantly. The best way to socialize is to attend puppy classes lead by a trainer who understands dog's social needs. Kind Animal Services offers a puppy preschool that is primarily designed for puppies to explore communication skills through play and interaction with other puppies. Puppy Preschool is for puppies 8wk - 18wk. Again we want these experiences to be positive and progress only at a rate the puppy is comfortable with. The pace of socialization is important. By pacing your socialization to your individual puppy will ensure that you are not flooding or overwhelming your puppy. This is a far too common pitfall of socialization I see puppy parents doing. Do not drag, pick up, push, hold, or otherwise restrain your puppy during times of socialization. I know how tempting it can be to pick up a puppy or say it's okay for a puppy loving friend to pick up your puppy! Doing this removes the puppy's ability to have control over their environment and will have the opposite affect of good socialization. When puppies are young many will not speak up about their concerns or fears so pet parents will miss the early signs of stress entirely. Every puppy socialization process will look different but I try to think of it just like raising a child. You want your puppy to metaphorically learn to say "please" and "thank you", shake hands as a respectful greeting, make eye contact, listen when others are speaking, ask questions, and share their toys. It's a process of parenting. I find the biggest challenge with puppy socialization vs human child socialization is that as a society we are far less forgiving of puppies than we are of children. Kind Animal Services as well as some other dog companies have created welcoming environments that understand that puppies are learning and we need to have patience with them as they explore, experiment, and play as a means of socialization. As much as I want to explain to you all the facets of dogs social life we would be here for years. This is one area of education (dog training) that I really encourage new puppy parents to seek the help of a professional. Socialization is so simple in theory but enormous when you dig into it. One more comment for those with older dogs (maybe a rescue) you too can also do some socialization techniques in the first few weeks of bringing home a new dog. Though your dog is probably already "socialized" there are still some ways to re-socialize in a sense but you must start the moment you bring them home. If you have a young dog reach out to Kind Animal Services today and register for some classes or Dog School . .

Lot's of pet owners understand that separation anxiety (SA) is a very prevalent problem but there is a lot of information out there about how to treat and even prevent it. So let's start there. Myth 1. Separation anxiety is preventable. You may have been advised by a well meaning individual that you shouldn't let your puppy sleep with you. Or maybe that you MUST create train in order to teach your dog how to be alone. It is a common misconception that people think they can prevent SA by raising their puppy in a specific way - through nurture. There is no evidence that we know, that points to any training protocols or puppy rearing tips will ward off SA. More research is being done but what we know at this time is that SA is not exactly preventable. Good news though is it is treatable! Myth 2. Food puzzles elevate anxiety. Food puzzles are wonderful and in many ways can benefit a dogs welfare. However, when it comes to separation anxiety leaving your dog with food puzzles does not help. It simply distracts them for a little bit but makes no difference in elevating they panic when they realize that you are gone. This goes for chews or other games that distract the dog while you are gone. Distraction is not a solution and has pitfalls. Myth 3. Desensitize leaving cues. Another common solution given to pet parents with separation anxiety dogs is to rehearse leaving routines frequently. I admit I was under the impression that if one desensitized the dog to the triggers that told them they would be left alone they would be calmer when you actually left. Myself along with others were miss-guided. However, upon further research there is an element of this process used for treating SA but it's not about faking the dog out. Turns out when you try to fake the dog out and practice leaving routines but don't leave you run the risk of making the anxiety worse, not better. Myth 4. Sneak out and don't make a fuss when you return. This is similar to the food puzzle idea of distraction combined with leaving cues. Sneaking out the door is not going to change how your dog feels when they notice you leave. The thing you need to know about separation anxiety is that it is anxiety. It might be helpful to think of it like a panic attack. Returning and ignoring your dog has no impact on SA but it can trigger other problems. In my experience ignoring your dog when you return after an absence (of any length) can trigger excess jumping and attention seeking behaviors as the dog frantically tries to return to homeostasis. It's usually far easier and avoids excess stress if you were give them attention right away and console their worries. Myth 5. You must use a crate for a dog with separation anxiety. I find this (putting SA suffering dogs in crates) to be the saddest advice out there. Do you know anyone who suffers from anxiety attacks? Maybe you do... When in the middle of an attack would confining them to a small enclosed space without an option to leave calm their attack? Definitely not. It's not uncommon for a SA dog to also be claustrophobic. Crates should be used wisely and only if absolutely necessary. They are defiantly not a necessity and can create more distressed to an already suffering dog. Their place in training should be reserved for dogs who are already crate trained and love their crate. Does your dog suffer from separation anxiety? Kind Animal Services offers real solutions for families with dogs suffering form this all to common disorder. Reach out if you are interested in learning more about how we can help you and your dog find relaxation when left home alone.

I get asked on occasion and from shocked pet parents about their adult dog attacking their new puppy. Comments like "they love their dog friends" and "they have never acted aggressively before". My first question is how old is this new puppy? If they are under 6 months old then your dog is probably displaying puppy aggression. This is a common behavior we see with adult dogs who encounter very young puppies. Exactly why your dog doesn't like puppies might be a few reasons. They have not met or interacted with puppies prior and are scared. (Most common reason) They have interacted with puppy's and just don't have the patience for this puppy's rude and bazar body language. The dog is not given another means to escape from the puppy and eventually gets fed up. Pray drive. The desire to hunt and attack small animals that look like pray. Small dogs or puppies can easily be subjected to this predatory behavior. In order to keep every one in the home safe and to ensure your puppy doesn't have a traumatic experience upon arriving into their new home. You should set up a puppy room or space. Your puppy will spend their first weeks and sometimes longer in this area always separated from the other dog. Both dogs can see, smell, and hear the other one but there are no negative emotions because they can safely dwell in their own private spaces. As I mentioned puppies can be extremely rude by nature to a mature adult. Their lack of personal space is no exception. A young puppy is not going to understand boundaries and will quickly over step the other dogs limitations if allowed to constantly interact. It is the Pet Parents job to ensure that the puppy respects the adult dog don't just "let them figure it out". When it comes to picking where to set up your puppy area -- I like the kitchen or dining area because they are spaces you are probably in a good portion of the day. This space will offer a wonderful opportunity for training and bonding with your puppy while your dogs are getting acclimated to each other. You cannot expect your dog to be okay with this new family member right away. Their life will be impacted by you getting another dog and they will no longer get all of the food, bones, toys, affection, and time with you ALONE! They have to share now. To ensure that this change goes soothly you want to start establishing consistent routines that both dogs can come to rely on. Feeding at around the same time every day, in the same location or way. Routines for walks that are calm so that your eventually 2 rambunctious dogs don't knock you over in their excitement and race to get out of the door. Determine what will your sleeping arrangement be. It's totally okay to allow one dog on the bed and keep one on the floor but you need to make sure that you train them each what is expected of them. Where are their day sleeping areas? Be sure that each dog is given their own designated beds and dens. Waiting until the puppy is old enough that you can teach them to leave the resident dog alone when they are in their bed/den is really important. Another reason for waiting to put them together full time. The end goal is to help the dogs meet slowly, get used to the new changes, and then to ensure that the dogs respect each other's space and needs. I will say it one more time this is not a process you should rush. Take as long as you need to and it will be quicker than rushing. If you need help with introducing your new dogs KAS can come up with a plan with you to make the process smooth. If you have already ended up with some aggressive or worrisome behavior when trying to introduce your new dog to your resident dog do not wait to get help!

We just started our 4 week skills course on leash walking and it got me thinking about just how important it is for the human set appropriate expectations for dog walking. The expectations many pet parents come into our training classes with is outdated. They imagine having a perfect stroll with their loyal always attentive dog heeling at their side. Their dog never straying from their position during the walk. Calmly and emotionlessly passing by a variety of stimulating things. Today, we know so much more about a dogs physiology and mental needs. So understanding how your dog operates will help you be more forgiving when they lean into the leash to smell something or pull you down the street to the dog park. (You would do it too if you were a dog.) Your dog is learning and behaving in a manner that benefits them. That's it and defiantly not being pack leader. Dogs are not trying to dominate you or control the walk they are just do what was reinforced. (Reinforcement meaning the dogs is getting something they want or need in return for a specific behavior, i.e. pulling.) I want to mention now; Withholding reinforcement is punishment! This is not a good way to solicit the behaviors you want. It's easy to think if they get reinforced for getting to smell that stinky spot on the ground then we should try and make them walk and wait to smell the stinky spot. Yes, that can work but no it's not the most effective method. However, there are exceptions to every rule and in some unique environments I might choose to use this approach, but do so sparingly. Restricting your dog and forcing them to behave in order to gain access to things they want creates frustration. Frustration can quickly lead to aggression. Here lies one of the hypothesis I have for why we are seeing an up tick in leash aggressive dogs. So the secret sauce to creating a calm, attentive, and respectful leash walking dog is (drumroll please) sniffing, and lots of it. I feel like a broken record when I tell people, let them sniff! Here is the thing you need to understand. Dogs are designed to explore and absorb information about their environment through their nose. Where humans rely on eye sight, dogs rely on oder. When you step foot in new territory, you need to give them time to sniff and move about as freely as possible. Sometimes I will call this the permitter check. Sniffing also helps lower a dogs anxiety and brings them to a learning state of mind. Okay, so I let my dog sniff but they still pull me around. Here is my list of expectations and guidelines to follow when you take a dog on a walk. I know that some of these are easier said than done but do your best to keep them in mind when you head out on a walk. Walk your dog with no agenda. -- This walk is a dog walk. If you want to hike to see the view you should probably leave your dog home. Your goal is to make your dog comfortable and that you both enjoy the walk no matter what. Make sure you’re prepared. -- Harness, treats, poop bags, spare leash, toy, squeaker to name a few useful items. Count steps not distance. -- A small patch of grass on the side of a road might be enough space to satisfy. Circle and U-Turn - Instead of walking in straight lines expect that you will need to circle your dog around or pace back and forth using U-Turns. Let them sniff - As long as they are not dragging you to sniff far off places but sniffing around where you stand let them sniff as long as they want. Only moving forward when they are ready to check out the next section of ground. Sniffing can also be used as a reward for nice leash manners. Do not pull your dog - This is critical and sometimes easier said than done. Pulling on your dog makes matters worse. I tell clients to lead by example. If you don't pull your, dog your dog will stop pulling you, kind of and in conjunction with the rest of the training protocol. Respect your dogs emotions - Some dog have no problem and truly are confident but the rest of our dogs have concerns about new environments. The extreme emotional display being aggression but no less important is the dog that pants, or even just flicks their ears. If there is something your dog is worried about respect their emotions and move away from it DO NOT pull them closer. A concerned dog is not a cute/funny dog and no they will not just get over it. Moving to the next point. Team work! - You are sitting in the drivers seat. Be a kind driver and let your co-pilot help navigate. If they need a pit stop take one, they want to go a different direction to avoid traffic, go. Learn to listen to your dog and work together while out on a walk. This walk is for the dog after all, right? Remember these are just guidelines and sometimes you will need to bend the rules to ensure that everyone including your dog is safe. However, if safety is not of concern than I recommend you review these rules frequently and keep them close at mind if you are going to have enjoyable leashed walks with your dog. If you are interested in getting help in teaching your dog to leash walk politely or maybe it's too late and they already have some reactivity - Contact Kind Animal Services today. We offer classes or can work with you privately to help teach both you and your dog how to better communicate and work as a team.

Fear is an interesting topic that many dog trainers will tell you lots of different things about how to "fix" it. The thing is, you can't "fix" fear totally, but there are lots of ways you can help your dog reduce and, in some cases, feel more comfortable around things that might have previously been scary. One of the most common advice is to pare the scary thing with a good thing that the dog loves. Yes, in most cases, this is what you want to do. We call this a Positive Association, and the goal is to change the dog's emotion from a fearful response to a neutral or happy response. This infographic is an excellent representation of what you could use to upgrade and pair with fun and rewarding items. No, you can not reinforce fear. I will the details of that for another post someday. But, again, you will not reinforce fear by adding good things or comforting them in their time of distress. This world will present so many things to your dog they could use an "Upgrade to 1st Class" around. Even if your dog is currently okay with the scary/stressful thing, it doesn't hurt to add a little extra cherry on top to ensure they never become fearful of it. It's not uncommon for a dog to develop a fear of noises later on in life. My Belgian Malinios did! She developed a fear of booms (fireworks & gunshots). I was also able to help her with her anxiety through systematic desensitization, and then her hearing reduced as she aged. My point is fear can crop up at any stage of your dog's life. Common fear-inducing or stressful situations where it pays to build positive associations, patterns, and consent routines for your dog: Crating Nail trims Visits to vet, groomer, and kennels Equipment Loud noises (i.e., vacuum, fireworks, kids screaming.) Vehicle rides and street traffic. Alone time Passing other dogs while on leash Children playing When using a positive association or reward, you need to know to give it AFTER the stressful event occurs. An example is the vacuum cleaner: Prepare some tiny bits of your dog's favorite treat and place them in a bowl nearby. Turn on the vacuum for 2-3 seconds. Turn off the vacuum. Take a pinch of little treats, and sprinkle on the floor. Repeat 🔁 turning the vacuum on for longer periods and slowly introducing movement. Yes, it can take a little bit of time upfront, but in the end, you will have a dog that sleeps and hangs out when the vacuum is running. Suppose your dog struggles to overcome a specific fear or has many general fears or anxiety; please reach out to Kind Animal Services. Fear and anxiety can be severe issues to resolve, and if left untended, your dog could develop more serious behavior problems. Email HeyTrainer@kindanimalservices.com with any questions you might have on the process. We would be happy to answer them for free.

Puppies, just like human babies, are inclined to cry out for help in a variety of usually annoying and sometimes disturbing ways. They are designed to push those around them into action. During this "baby" stage of development, their brains also absorb information at an alarming rate! They are learning as they go. Every experience is new to them, so they must develop responses and skills and catalog every detail of the experience away for future survival. This is why it is vital to ensure that their experiences are positive and involve minimal stress levels. Stress at high levels or for prolonged periods changes the make-up of the puppy brain. This doesn't mean that they are compromised to the extent that someone can't live with them and work with them on becoming a mannered companion. However, they will have to adjust their methods of working with that puppy who endured stress at a young age compared to a cognitive-typical puppy. So you want to teach your puppy not to bite you, not to bark, and not to jump. Those are the biggest complaints we get from puppy parents. The trouble is that these behaviors are natural for puppies. First, we ask, why does your puppy do these often unwanted behaviors? As annoying as the behavior is, it is effective for the puppy! Try asking yourself, why do babies cry? There is a fundamental need the animal is most likely expressing a lack of, and they resort to unwanted behaviors to get that need met. Puppy needs that must be addressed: Social acceptance and guidance Play & creativity (preferably with peers) exploration (positive experiences) Food (the younger the puppy, the more frequently they need to eat) Water Potty time Sleep! (this one is often overlooked) Chewing & independence Some of those could be broken into different categories, and there are indeed smaller subcategories of needs that I didn't mention. Is your puppy getting the appropriate amount of each need? The puppy determines the amount and intensity of how each need is met. I bring up these needs because it is usually a lack of or miss interpretation of a Puppy Need that gets our puppies (and kittens) into trouble. They are using the resources they have available to get the things they need. Biting you leads to your attention, and frustration raises your energy. However, most pet parents who put the puppy's needs first and ensure that they receive all the things I mention often find that their puppy grows up and out of those "troublesome" puppy behaviors. Meeting your dog's needs is the definition of enrichment. When we meet our puppy's needs appropriately, they don't have to ask for as much. When they are not nagging us, they are better behaved, generally speaking. So, in conclusion, it is the needy puppy that most commonly ends up being the naughty puppy. If you are struggling to solve the reason behind your puppy's biting, barking, jumping, or other annoying behaviors, I recommend signing up for our Puppy classes. Consider private consultations if you have an older dog whose behavior is more concerning.

Dogs are emotional beings that can't actually endure as much stress and is often perceived . It's important to help your dog decompress regularly and build the skills needed to cope with the daily stress of living with you. (Sorry, for the honesty but yes life with you is stressful.) Frequent behavior complaints can actually be greatly reduced when you give your dog a voice and help them feel secure. Excess jumping on you. Shyness and fear. Reactivity when on a walk directed at people or dogs. Reactivity to outside noises and street traffic when in the home. Pulling on the leash. Barking. Hyper-activity. and more... When we talk about decompression at KAS it usually refers to the activities that fill your dogs emotional cup. I refer to the training and other procedures around setting your dog up for success as stress reducing activities. This poster 'Decompress for Success' illustrates those stress reducing activities and ways you can help your dog feel secure and comfortable. In the end if we reduce the stress in our dog's lives the outcome is a more relaxed, content, and emotionally stable being. There is one important concept to keep in mind! Your dog is not human. I don't say this to separate the two of you, but I say this because behaviors that are natural and make a dog feel good we, humans, can easily get impatient with. Be kind to yourself and your dog and respect each others differences. Okay, here is my list of decompression activities that if you apply them you and your dog will be on the path to a balanced relationship and happy life. Cooperative care and consent! -- This means asking your dog for consent and accepting the answer if they say no. Don't get me wrong there are some occasions where this will not be possible but try to ask 80% of the time. Another thing to mention is that asking can look different in different relationships. Obviously, dogs can't speak like humans so permission must be given through body language and training. Reframe dog training as education and learning to communicate! -- Your dog does not have to be obedient just because they are a dog and you are a human. Think about your training sessions as educating your dog in your human (not native) language. Education should be gradual and the environment relaxed so the dog can focus on their learning. Think about starting new training tasks in doors and in a comfortable setting when the dog has had their primary needs of food, water, security, social, and physical health. It's extremely difficult to learn when you don't feel safe or your body feels sick. Routine & sleep! -- Just like with the most successful humans in the world, the most successful dogs are those that are getting good and plenty sleep. Build sleep into consistent routines that make parts of the day predictable. Predictability provides security as it sets expectations your dog can rely on day in and day out. There is a place for inconsistency as well but it's not as important as routine to your dogs wellbeing. Time to be a dog! -- Provide time and environments where your dog can engage in instinctual behaviors (i.e. chasing, digging, barking, sniffing, and hunting). The easiest and one of the key behaviors I encourage dog parents to capitalize on is sniffing. Dogs explore, learn, and communicate, through their sense of smell. When they are sniffing they are also deep breathing. Think of sniffing time as doggy-meditation! Allow ample time smell the roses on walks or play sent games in the house. Stop Dog-Networking! -- Do you like attending networking events? You are expected to talk small talk with a bunch of people you don't know and everyone has their own agenda. If you're an introvert these events are emotionally taxing. Chances are your dog probably doesn't enjoy it either. Yes, some dogs, just like some people, thrive in that environment however the rest of us don't! This is they type of situation you are putting your dog in when you encourage social interactions with other dogs (or people) on the street, attend dog parks, or enroll your dog in daycare. I find this to be one of the hardest concepts for people to wrap their head around because it can look like the dog is enjoying themselves. Even pulling towards other dogs (or people) when in public. However, the signs of discomfort are subtle. Think back again to that networking event you attended did everyone there know you were uncomfortable? I can tell you with confidence when I attend those events people often suspect I'm an extrovert, when I'm actually freaking out inside. Many dogs mask their anxiety by doubling down on the "friendly" behavior. I could go on but I will save it for another article. In conclusion, in order to build the best possible relationship and livelihood for you and your dog it is important to Decompress for Success. If you want further information about following through with theses 5 suggestions please don't hesitate to reach out. HeyTrainer@kindanimalservices.com Kind Animal Services is here to help you.

There is this question that has haunted me almost my entire life. It has become slightly more refined as I have grown up and found myself in the profession of animal training. I soak up all the information I can find about learning, experiences, development, behavior, and patterns. This career has fit me well and the skills that I am good at. However, a question still remains… How do we change people's understanding and the hummm of culture around animal training? The field is growing and scientists are discovering more and more. Practitioners are trying new ideas and raising the bar of animal welfare. The gap is that the public doesn’t have the same information and current marketing is designed to sell products and services at the animals expense. What would it take to change the story, shift our mindset, and reestablish our training goals with the animal’s wellbeing in mind? Effectiveness is not enough. There are loads of Effective training options that give the animal no agency or control over their environment. Have you ever thought to ask an animal if they would like to participate in training or take a nap? There is a movement that I want to address. It’s the movement towards understanding and building two way communication and healthy relationships with non-human species. (Though we could probably work on the same concepts in our human relationships too.) Look, KAS and myself are not above anyone else. We too get frustrated with our animals when they don’t perform. It can be frustrating and embarrassing when your animal chooses an inopportune time to reduce participation. The thing is we want to honor our animals for who they are, non-human individuals. Don’t beat yourself up because you have used adversives (like a prong collar on your dog) just learn more and do better going forward with the new information that you have. Next time you step into your animal's space ask them if they would like to participate if the answer is no that’s okay try again later. Remember just because they have chosen to not participate with you is no reason to withhold a meal. Give them their reinforcement and walk away. There is one more hard pill to swallow. That is not all animals want the same job. If you are a needy human and you have a pet, say a cat that chooses not to participate in training or interactions with you or anyone, that might be their personality. You are not going to make training or interactions with humans any more enjoyable when you withhold food or water to force them to come out and be social. Respect the animals individuality. I know that this post will probably get some hate and might not get very many views but it’s my first attempt at changing the paradigm. Here is my summary. There is a welfare problem going on right now for our pets and no amount of money you can spend is going to fix your relationship with your animal. Like any relationship you need to put in the time, respect the other being, and try to understand what life might be like for them. I know you envision that sweet, happy go lucky, obedient dog but that is a vision that marketing has sold to you and doesn’t exist in reality. (Well unless you pay a lot of money for a service dog who is often bred and then assessed for job fit. Dogs that have the right genetics and temperament who are put through rigorous job training.) Your shelter dog, many pure breeds, and mixes will never live up to the expectation of a “perfect dog”. Love the animal in front of you and help them become the best animal they can be. Kind Animal Services can help if you are struggling with understanding what your dogs needs are and training. However, I challenge you to ditch the term dog training and talk about education for you and your dog. Or maybe you need dog-human relationship counseling or coaching. We can help you identify an enrichment program that works for your dog and then help you educate your dog where needed. More about enrichment in another post.

Shock collars should not be an option for dog training! There I said it. This morning I went to Kickstand to get my coffee and watched a few dogs come in. I enjoy dog-parent watching when I'm out and about. Today I was saddened when I watched a beautiful dog walked in and immediately I wondered if the dog was trained on a shock collar. The first thing I noticed was the low slightly hunched posture and its ears were pulled back and forehead looked worried. As I watched them longer it was obvious that the dog was panting from stress. The temperature was very mild and no other dogs in the area were panting. All clear signs of stress and anxiety. From my seat I could not see a shock collar but the longer I observed the dog I did see it was indeed wearing a shock collar covered by and matching it's long black coat. This confirmed my hunch based off of its body language. Continuing to observe the dogs behavior made me want to pull out my phone and record it. Every sign was crystal clear: the lowered head, the darting eye contact, lip licking, ears back, panting, and worried whale eyes. Nothing in this dogs behavior was calm or confident. The poor dog had obviously been suppressed and had no option other than to comply or get shocked. This is no way for any dog to live. Why do we do this to them completely ignorant of their distress? Please I beg you don't put your dog through this psychological pain in the name of training. If you need help communicating and training your dog contact us.